Grantee Research Project Results
2012 Progress Report: Development of Apparel and Footwear From Renewable Sources (Phase II)
EPA Grant Number: SU836007Title: Development of Apparel and Footwear From Renewable Sources (Phase II)
Investigators: Cao, Huantian , Wool, R. P. , Bonanno, Paula , Kramer, Jillian , Lipschitz, Stacey , Dan, Quan , Camara, Juliana , Gong, Shijin
Current Investigators: Cao, Huantian , Wool, R. P. , Bonanno, Paula , Kramer, Jillian , Lipschitz, Stacey , Dan, Quan , Sidoriak, Emma , Zuckman, Emma , Cook, Henley , Gong, Shijin , Camara, Juliana , Woo, Andrew , Su, Xintian , Benz, Thomas
Institution: University of Delaware
EPA Project Officer: Page, Angela
Phase: II
Project Period: August 15, 2011 through August 14, 2013 (Extended to August 14, 2014)
Project Period Covered by this Report: August 15, 2011 through August 14,2012
Project Amount: $74,999
RFA: P3 Awards: A National Student Design Competition for Sustainability Focusing on People, Prosperity and the Planet - Phase 2 (2011) Recipients Lists
Research Category: Pollution Prevention/Sustainable Development , P3 Awards , P3 Challenge Area - Chemical Safety , Sustainable and Healthy Communities
Objective:
In Phase II, we will continue to develop resins, resin-coated textile fabrics and composites from renewable sources such as plant oils and wastes such as chicken feather, and use these materials to develop more apparel and footwear with different design and style. As in Phase I, we choose female college students as the target users for our design. Our objectives include: (a) developing and evaluating bio-based materials, i.e., thermosetting polymer resins, resin-coated textile fabrics, polyurethane foams, and chicken feather composites, for apparel and footwear products; (b) designing and producing garments and shoes with different styles using bio-based materials; (c) evaluating the comfort, consumers’ acceptance, and cost of our design and product; (d) evaluating the lifecycle environmental impacts of the materials we developed, and (e) revising the design based on evaluation results and developing educational tool.
Progress Summary:
The project is an interdisciplinary collaboration between faculty and students in the Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering (CHEG) and the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies (FASH). Students in the ACRES (Affordable Composites from Renewable Sources) group in CHEG developed thermoset resins and composites from renewable sources. Students in FASH used these materials from renewable sources to design and develop apparel, footwear, and other products.
Materials development
The environmentally friendly leather substitute (eco-leather) was a breathable composite made from natural fiber and acrylated epoxidized soybean oil (AESO) and methacrylated lauric acid (MLAU) resin. In the design and investigation of our P3 Phase I project (SU834707), it was found that the most needed eco-leather materials would have different stiffness/softness properties, different colors, and larger size. The eco-leather material development in the first year of Phase II was focused on these areas.
In Phase I, it was found that a 50/50 composition of AESO/MLAU resin cured on organic cotton fabric can be used as eco-leather material. The stiffness of the eco-leather fabric was mainly determined by the weight and thickness of the substrate fabric. Organic cotton, flax, and SoronaTM (DuPont Co) fabrics with different weights were chosen as possible substrates. In examination of the fibers, one of the most important aspects is the compatibility of the fiber with the resin. To qualitatively measure the compatibility, wetting tests were conducted as shown in Figure 1. It was found that the AESO/MLAU resin is compatible with organic cotton fabrics, flax fabrics and some SoronaTM fabrics. Therefore, eco-leather can be developed using these substrates.
Figure 1. Wetting tests conducted with various cotton fibers (1-3) and flax fibers (4-6). Resins examined were AESO (top droplet), AESO/MLAU (50-50) (middle droplet), and MLAU (bottom droplet). (a) Fibers were cut, numbered, and positioned. (b) Initial droplet of resin onto samples. (c) Progression of wetting after 2 minutes. (d) Progression of wetting after 5 minutes.
Dyes were added in curing of AESO/MLAU resin on fabric substrates to get eco-leather materials with different colors. The compatibility among dye, resin, and fabric is also important in this process. After testing a few different dyes, it was found solvent dyes were compatible in the process. We obtained four solvent dyes (red, blue, yellow, and violet) from Abbey Group Companies (Philadelphia, PA). With the red, blue and yellow colors, it is possible to develop eco-leather with any colors. Figure 2 illustrates eco-leather samples with different colors.
The Vacuum Assisted Resin Transfer Molding (VARTM) process was used to make a square yard piece of eco-leather sample as in Figure 3. It should be noted that the size is scalable to much larger surface areas and different colors can be dyed on the two sides. In the VARTM process, the natural fiber laminates are placed at room temperature into a large vacuum bag where the top and bottom moldeding surfaces are controlled for brightness or matte appearance. A vacuum is drawn and the low viscosity natural oil resins infuse into the laminates. The liquid resin fills both the gaps between fibers and also infuses through absorption in the interior of the fibers. The latter process is most important for improving the properties of the fibers through defect healing while causing microvoids in the resin matrix. The microvoid content can be controlled by the VARTM process history and is the mechanism for generating breathable but water-resistant materials with leather-like properties.
Figure 2. Eco-leather samples (8 inch x 8 inch) with various colors
Figure 3. Large size (1 square yard) eco-leather sample
Product design and development
The square yard piece of the eco-leather material was just developed a few weeks ago. Therefore, we have not developed any apparel prototypes in the first year using the eco-leather material due to the restriction of material size. We will develop apparel prototypes in year 2.
One judge for our Phase I project in the 7th Annual National Sustainable Design Expo, Washington, DC, April 2011 recommended to use the eco-leather materials to develop accessories such as bags, wallets, and purses. Following his recommendation and based on the material size and stiffness property, we developed some accessories as illustrated in Figure 4.
In the evaluation of shoe prototypes developed in Phase I, it was found that the shoe sole made from AESO/MLAU resin cracked in bending area when weather was cold. The researchers believe the resin’s glass transition temperature was the reason for cracking in cold weather. Considering this problem and the mechanical property of eco-leather, we designed new shoes as in Figure 5.
Several leading apparel and footwear companies expressed interest in working with the team on making shoe prototypes. Currently, we are in the process of collaborating with some of the companies on making shoe prototypes.
Figure 4. Accessories made from eco-leather materials
Figure 5. Shoe designs
Future Activities:
Eco-leather samples with different stiffness/softness property, different colors, and large size were developed. Accessories such as bag, purse, and wallet were designed and developed using these eco-leather materials. Footwear was designed based on evaluation results of Phase I. In the next year, we will continue to develop materials from renewable sources, develop footwear prototypes, design and develop apparel prototype using eco-leather material, and evaluate the prototypes.
Journal Articles:
No journal articles submitted with this report: View all 6 publications for this projectSupplemental Keywords:
Environmentally benign substitute, bio-based feedstock, textile, toxic use reductionProgress and Final Reports:
Original AbstractP3 Phase I:
Development of Apparel and Footwear From Renewable Sources | Final ReportThe perspectives, information and conclusions conveyed in research project abstracts, progress reports, final reports, journal abstracts and journal publications convey the viewpoints of the principal investigator and may not represent the views and policies of ORD and EPA. Conclusions drawn by the principal investigators have not been reviewed by the Agency.