Grantee Research Project Results
Final Report: Developing Sustainable Products Using Renewable Cellulose Fiber and Biopolymer Composites
EPA Grant Number: SU835733Title: Developing Sustainable Products Using Renewable Cellulose Fiber and Biopolymer Composites
Investigators: Lee, Young-A , Xiang, Chunhui , Madbouly, Samy , Wen, Zhiyou , Farr, Cheryl , Nam, Changhyun , Li, Rui , Ramasubramanian, Gauri , Ghalachyan, Armine
Institution: Iowa State University
EPA Project Officer: Hahn, Intaek
Phase: II
Project Period: September 1, 2014 through August 31, 2016 (Extended to August 31, 2017)
Project Amount: $90,000
RFA: P3 Awards: A National Student Design Competition for Sustainability Focusing on People, Prosperity and the Planet - Phase 2 (2014) Recipients Lists
Research Category: P3 Challenge Area - Sustainable and Healthy Communities , P3 Challenge Area - Chemical Safety , Sustainable and Healthy Communities
Objective:
One option to address the above challenges is to utilize a naturally occurring cellulosic fiber production method that grows cellulosic fibers in the form of a mat-like layer that can be utilized as a textile fabric as a leather-like non-woven. Thus, processing into yarns and forming fabric is not necessary. The Phase I project results proved us the concept that there is an optimal method to develop cellulose-based biocomposite materials, which have low moisture absorbent and good tensile strength.Therefore, the objectives (scope of work) of Phase II project included to: 1) identify optimal solution by developing best conditioned cellulose-based biocomposites to have low moisture regains and good tensile strength, standardizing cellulose fiber mat growing process, and evaluating the materials to meet a commercial use; 2) design apparel or apparelrelated products by linking with the Midwest-based apparel (or other product-related) company; and 3) evaluate the product made of the biocomposite materials and impact of the producton the promotion of sustainable apparel using a survey, focus group and wear test.
Summary/Accomplishments (Outputs/Outcomes):
Measurable outcomes in the original proposal included:
(1) Developing an optional method to produce sustainable composites
(2) Producing several prototypes made from the cellulose fiber mat composites;
(3) Conducting human wear testing of the prototype;
(4) Conducting focus group discussion;
(5) Conducting survey to explore consumer’s perception toward the use of the composites in apparel design;
(6) Producing manuscripts and conference presentations that detail work completed for the study;
(7) Producing instructional materials with video tutorials for use in the classroom; and,
(8) Disseminating instructional materials on an educational public website.
Outputs/Outcomes of the project were presented as follows:
Outcome 1: Optimization of Cellulose Fiber Mat Growing Process§ Experiments were conducted for the optimization.
− Experiment to identify optimal temperature for cellulose fiber mat growth: Tested 35o, 30o, 25o, 20oC conditions: 25-30oC produced the best cellulose, considering cellulose uniformity, appearance, thickness and weight.
− Experiment to identify optimal combination of ingredients for cellulose growth using central composite design
− Based on preliminary results, increasing tea and vinegar amounts resulted in better growth. Also, sugar amount might be reduced.
− Sugar concentration analysis: Exploring the influence of sugar concentration on cellulose fiber mat growing process
− Experiment to use leftover sweetened iced tea from the campus dining facilities, which minimize the use of consumable ingredients. The results revealed that iced tea could be used for growing cellulose; however, more experiments are necessary to confirm the finding.
− With the purpose of reducing bacteria cellulose (BC)’s moisture absorbency, we experimented a method of modifying BC by incorporating commercially available biobased sustainable films during its growing process. Five film samples were placed on the surface of the tea medium prepared for BC growth that were left to grow for three weeks in a static condition. The experimental results showed that the selected films could not be incorporated with BC as they prevented adequate airflow and inhibited BC growth.
Further experiments should be conducted using more porous and breathable films. Incorporating commercially available bio-based films could be one of efficient ways for enhancing BC to make it viable for apparel products.
Outcome 2: Improving Material Properties and Material Testing
− Two different experimental approaches were taken: one for single-layer material property improvement and the other for multi-layer material property improvement by combining with other materials.
− Single-layer material property testing:
− Experiment with cellulose microcrystalsfor improving mechanical properties ü Reducing the level of water absorbency
− Material samples were treated with commercially available waterproofing products and tested for water absorbency (AATCC 79-2007 method) and water repellency (spray test method, AATCC 22-2005)
− Air permeability was measured according to ASTM D737-04 test method for untreated/control cellulose mats and treated cellulose mats (coated with Clear Coat as this was found to offer effective water repellency). Treated mats had higher air permeability. While the average permeability for untreated cellulose mat was approximately 0.3cm3/cm2/S, the average of treated mat was approximately 9.9 cm3/cm2/s. However there was a lot of variance between the samples tested (individual sample results: 14.4, 22.8, 1.78, 0.47cm3/cm2/s). This could be because of the uneven surface of the material.
− Multi-layer material property testing: ü We examined the material properties of the cellulose fiber mat and reported one major issue with this material, easy moisture regains from the atmosphere or human body, which result in a softening of the material and a loss of tensile strength. This implies that the single layer of cellulose fiber mat may not be effective to use as a leather alternative material in the current footwear industry. Therefore, we aimed to develop a multi-layered cellulosic material (MCM) and examine its properties –
thermal comfort, air permeability, tensile strength, and wettability – compared with those of commercially available leathers using experimental research design. We hypothesized that these two materials would have similar properties. The selected materials for this experiment were the cellulosic fiber mat we developed, denim (100% cotton), 100% hemp, and calf and pig skins; the first three materials for MCM we proposed as a leather alternate and the last two for commercially available leathers often used when making shoes. Properties of each material were first examined separately, followed by two separately combined materials – MCM (cellulosic fiber mat + denim + hemp) and two-layered leather (calf skin + pig skin). This experimental study presented the effectiveness of MCM to be used as a leather alternate when developing shoes, due to its properties to maintain wearers’ feet in a thermal equilibrium compared to two-layered leather. The results also provided a better understanding of the influence of MCM on the wearers’ thermal comfort. Further research is suggested identifying solutions to reduce water absorbency of MCM. This study also urges to develop a shoe prototype using MCM and perform users’ wear testing by comparing shoes made of leathers.
Outcome 3: Consumer Acceptance Survey
− Online survey was conducted to explore consumers’ perception and expectation toward the use of apparel products made of green tea-based renewable cellulose fiber mats. This was for evaluating the results and success of the biocomposite materials developed and the use of these on product development, and the implementation of the mass productionbased design.
− 166 individuals participated in the survey. A total of 132 valid responses were used for the data analysis. The participants had a positive perception and attitude of the cellulose material and thought it was unique and interesting. However, participants expressed concerns about the color and the texture of the material. They thought there should be more color variations and that the hard and stiff texture might cause discomfort for the wearers. The study results indicate that bacteria cellulose (BC) material has the potential to gain consumers in the future. Although participants did not perceive BC material as good as other currently available sustainable materials, they presented great interest in this material, providing ideas for its potential use like shoes, hats, accessories, packaging materials, or home furnishings (e.g., curtains). Further study should be done for further exploring the potential of BC material for a variety of products beyond apparel. Further consumer testing is also recommended involving study participant’s physical inspections of BC material by conducting sensory evaluation (e.g., tactile, odor) and wear testing of apparel products made of this material.
Outcome 4: Apparel or its Related Product Development using zero waste approach
− The survey participants suggested using the BC material for apparel-related products such as shoes and bags beyond apparel (vest, our original prototype). Sustainable shoes prototypes for men and women were developed for further testing. These prototypes we created were exhibited in various juried design exhibitions at national and international levels.
Outcome 5: Manuscripts/conference presentations that detail work completed for the study
− Our team put efforts to disseminate the findings and (or) progress of our work via conferences, design exhibitions, and journals. One manuscript focusing on reporting material properties is currently in review. Several conference presentations were performed as well as showcasing our design prototypes.
− Beyond disseminating our work to the above academic field, we also put our efforts to share our work to public via media presses.
Outcome 6: Industry Partnership
− One internally known footwear company approached our research team to do collaborative work for the use of this material to an actual commercial product development, particularly shoes. We have initiated an informal, collaborative industry partnership with one of major leading footwear industry in 2016 and the collaborative idea brainstorming is ongoing.
Additional Outcomes
Other outcomes we proposed in our original proposal have been delayed, including conducting human wear testing of the prototype and participants’ perception survey (via interviews and survey questionnaire) and producing instructional materials for the use in classroom and public. Although our project was ended, we are continuing to complete the human wear testing of shoes prototypes by evaluating wearers’ objective performance of shoes by using quantitative kinematic and kinetic parameters of lower body movements, which led to prove the compatibility of BC-based sustainable shoes as leather-based commercial shoes. We are also working on educational materials related with our project.
Conclusions:
The findings of our project projects some benefits as follows:
−Environmental benefits: Materials needed to produce the prototype proposed in this project are produced in a non-polluting medium that is sometimes referred to as Kombucha, a fermented tea drink. The biopolymer that would be used to create the composite was from sustainable sources. The composite meets the EPA P3 expectations and guidelines for biodegradable and compostable.
−Economic benefits: These jobs would not be dependent on current technology or farming skills. This opens the potential for placing production facilities in areas of high unemployment because production is not dependent on soil or specific climate conditions. The transformation of the cellulose fiber mat-like material would provide additional employment opportunities. Increasing employment provides the opportunity for improving economic conditions for individuals, families and communities.
−Scalability and transferability are driving factors in the project because if the project does not meet these criteria, the economic benefits cannot be achieved. The development of the prototype has the potential for larger scale production. The next stage would be to develop the methods needed for larger scale production via partnering with the industry.
This project also included valuable educational and interdisciplinary aspects:
−Providing students with a research experience that integrates textiles with an understanding of science and science-based research. As apparel design and development students, there is minimal integration understanding the links between fiber polymers, fiber acceptance of other polymers such as treatments, and product development. When approached with the opportunity to have an integral part in a research projects, the students were very enthusiastic. When one student found the TED Grow Your Own Clothes video and shared it with the other students, they discussed the possibilities if the moisture regain problem could be solved. Additionally, they began scouring the web and campus for information. Involvement with solving the problem presented in the proposal provided students with an understanding of textiles, product development, research and team problem solving that would not be otherwise available.
−Transforming the findings of this project to public via media presses that led to another business opportunity for a small-scale farm or company in a long run.
−Presentations and manuscripts from the project have been another method of dissemination for the project.
− This project brought multi-disciplinary team members from various scientific areas of the study: material science, chemistry, biopolymer and biocomposite research, and apparel product design and development.
Environmental knowledge is necessary to keep the environmental goals of the project on track. We need to have an understanding of the ecological impacts of different ingredients and developing processes so that we can make good decisions about material choices. Furthermore, we must understand the environmental impact of every part of the garments’ construction and use to accurately estimate a life cycle analysis of a garment. Economics is essential to maintaining profitability.
Continuous research should be performed beyond this project, focusing on the following parts:
−Continued Process & Product Optimization: Standardize scale-up production; improve material to be competitive with comparable products on the market
−Build Industry Partnerships Develop novel apparel or apparel-related products from the biocomposite material, and maximize cost effective scale-up for commercial use; continuously explore other innovative utilities of biocomposite materials beyond apparel.
Journal Articles on this Report : 1 Displayed | Download in RIS Format
| Other project views: | All 9 publications | 2 publications in selected types | All 1 journal articles |
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Nam C, Lee YA. Multilayered cellulosic material as a leather alternative in the footwear industry. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 2019;37(1):20-34. |
SU835733 (Final) |
Exit Exit |
Supplemental Keywords:
science, technology, innovation, teaching resource, consumerProgress and Final Reports:
Original AbstractP3 Phase I:
Developing Sustainable Products Using Renewable Cellulose Fiber and Biopolymer Composites | Final ReportThe perspectives, information and conclusions conveyed in research project abstracts, progress reports, final reports, journal abstracts and journal publications convey the viewpoints of the principal investigator and may not represent the views and policies of ORD and EPA. Conclusions drawn by the principal investigators have not been reviewed by the Agency.