Includes bibliographical references and indexes.

Consists of reprints. On Beaches / P. Cornaglia -- The Spawning of the Grunion / W.F. Thompson and J.B. Thompson -- A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves / M.P. O'Brien -- Shore Processes and Beach Characteristics / W.C. Krumbein -- Dynamics of Nearshore Sediment Movement / J.W. Johnson -- The Prediction of Longshore Currents / J.A. Putnam, W.H. Munk, and M.A. Traylor -- Nearshore Circulation / F.P. Shepard and D.L. Inman -- Wave-Induced Motion of the Bottom Sediment Particles / P.S. Eagleson and R.G. Dean -- Radiation Stresses in Water Waves: A Physical Discussion, with Applications / M.S. Longuet-Higgins and R.W. Stewart -- Longshore Current Velocity: A Review of Theory and Data / C.J. Galvin, Jr. -- Rip Currents. 2. Laboratory and Field Observations / A.J. Bowen and D.L. Inman -- Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves / M.S. Longuet-Higgins -- Field Observation of Nearshore Circulation and Meandering Currents / C.J. Sonu -- Longshore Sand Transport on Beaches / P.D. Komar and D.L. Inman -- Beach Formation by Waves: Some Model Experiments in a Wave Tank / R.A. Bagnold -- Movement of Beach Sands by Water Waves / H.A. Einstein -- The Relationship Between Sand Size and Beach-Face Slope / W.N. Bascom -- A Model Relating Dynamics and Sediment Pattern in Equilibrium in the Region of Shoaling Waves, Breaker Zone, and Foreshore / R.L. Miller and J.M. Zeigler -- Laboratory Study of Sea-Level Rise as a Cause of Shore Erosion / M. Schwartz -- Tidal Cycles of Changes in an Equilibrium Beach, Sandy Hook, New Jersey / A.N. Strahler.